BenTasker.co.uk

I found some old notes on this on my wiki, and figured someone might find them helpful

There is a known issue with the Citroen C5, where the rear calipers may end up rubbing against the inside of the wheel (rear caliper corrosion syndrom).

Basically the issue is one of water ingress. Corrosion develops between the mating faces where the caliper is mounted to the suspension leg, and the caliper is slowly pushed out at an angle, ultimately causing it to rub against the wheel.

It's identifiable by metal being worn away from the caliper and/or the inside of the wheel.

The Body control unit (BSI) on Citroens (and Peugeots) sometimes goes batshit-insane and switches things off for no other apparent reason than it felt like it.

A reset is usually enough to resolve, but the steps need to be followed almost exactly, and the car should be thoroughly checked afterwards to make sure everything is working. 

This documentation details how to perform the reset

Video showing how to dis-assemble a Saab door locking unit in order to gain access to the actuator motor's contacts.

This locking unit is from a 2010 Saab 93 1.9 TTiD Saloon

This documentation details how to remove and replace the EGR Valve on a 2004 Honda Civic 1.6 with a Petrol engine.

You may need to do this if you're getting an engine management light (MIL) with diagnostic code P0401 (EGR Flow Insufficient). Some people prefer to start by cleaning the valve rather than replacing it - the process is exactly the same as detailed here, just that you'll put the old one back on after cleaning it (remember to order a new EGR gasket though).

Honda used a variety of engines in different models of the civic though, so your EGR may be different. Before starting, pay close attention to the first picture in this document to check that your EGR location is the same (the EGR valve is the thing within the blue sticker on it in the photo).

Originally published on Benscomputer.no-ip.org Feb 2009.

This page is here as a reference for others experiencing the issues I have been having on my 2002 SV650-S lately.

SYMPTOM: Battery not charging, so bike refuses to start every so often. Misfire in Idle range but not always on the same cylinder.

The central locking door lock mechanisms on Saab 9-3s (and 9-5s) are known to occasionally malfunction/stop working. When you hit the central locking button on the remote, the affected door often won't lock (or won't unlock if it was already locked). The issue tends to start out intermittent and then worsen with time.

A new unit is currently around £140 (without labour), but they can be obtained second hand on ebay for around £30. Replacing them is incredibly easy.

It is also possible to strip the unit down to repair it, however, it's not without it's risks. While the door lock unit is removed the door won't latch closed (and certainly won't lock), so if you damage the unit trying to repair it, you're going to be in a tricky position. The route I took was to buy a second hand unit from ebay, fit that and then look at repairing the original (so I've got it on the shelf if the replacement starts exhibiting the same symptoms).

This documentation details how to dismantle and repair the locking unit mechanism

Below is the ordering and rating of fuses for the Passenger side fusebox (located in the end of the Dashboard) for the Saab 9-3

The rear fusebox is located in the boot, behind the right hand side panel. The panel should just pull outwards and then you'll see the fusebox and rear electrical centre (also the stock amp if it was fitted at the factory).

This documentation details what each of those fuses are. The image is clicky so you can view a larger version if required.

Replacing the front brake rotors and pads on a Saab 9-3 is pretty straight forward (in fact, it's almost identical - down to the caliper springs, to the process of doing the same on a Volvo S60).

Before you begin, you'll need to have made sure you've ordered the correct size of replacement disc for your car. If you're not sure what size discs you require, see my guide on how to ascertain brake disc sizes.

This documentation will walk you through the process of replacing pads and discs on your Saab 9-3. The car I've used in this documentation is a UK 2010 model, but the process should be more or less the same across the years (the caliper spring does differ in shape on earlier models though).

The process is simple, however, these are your brakes - if you don't feel entirely confident then either get a garage to do it, or get someone who is confident to help/supervise.

I drive a lot of miles, so statistically it's likely that at some point I'll be involved in a collision. In all my earlier cars, I've fitted a dashcam so that I can show whether or not (hopefully the latter) I was at fault when that day arrives.

Having recently changed car, I once again need to install the dashcam. The cam itself is a Nextbase 412G and simply clips to it's mount (stuck to the windscreen, with one of these adhesive mounts).

This documentation details how to install the Nextbase Dashcam Hardwire kit into a 2010 Saab 9-3 Saloon. It should also apply to most other years and variants of the 9-3 (and, to some extent, things like the Vauxhall Vectra).

Replacing the front discs on a Saab 93 is simple, however, the rears are a little more work (in fact, they're a pain in the arse), and you're going to some specific tools in order to achieve the job.

This was performed on a 2010 Saab 93 TTID, but the process should be the same for most model years (and may actually be more or less the same on the Vauxhall Vectra).

Be aware: some of the fixings are extremely tight and have limited access, there will almost certainly be periods where you'll wish you let the garage do the job.

Amongst the usual selection of tools and sockets etc, please ensure you have

• A selection of longbars/torque wrenches etc (you're going to need to find something that can fit)
• A E18 Torx socket to fit each of these. You cannot proceed without.
• A E20 Torx socket  (just in case)
• A deep 21mm socket
• An electric or air impact driver (you may be able to proceed without, but there's a strong chance of getting stuck)
• A small/pocket blowtorch
• A jack that can lift your car as high as possible (makes more room to work in on the hard bit)
• Brake rewind tool sized to fit a Saab (the "universal" 2 size ones don't) - I have this kit, the Saab needs disc "M" on there.

You will also need to ensure that you've ordered the correct size replacement discs for your car. You can quite easily ascertain what size you will need.

If you're sometimes finding that the remote buttons on your Saab key don't work, it's probably that the battery is coming up for replacement.

The key on both the Saab 93 and Saab 95 is essentially a large plastic sheath around a hidden key, with some rubberised buttons on the front.

Replacement of the battery is quick and easy, and follows much the same process as replacing the keycase itself.

The key for both the Saab 93 and 95 is essentially a large plastic sheath around a hidden key with some rubber buttons on the front.

Unfortunately rubber has a tendency to degrade over time, and the buttons eventually either fall out, or collapse in.

Replacement of the keycase is quick and easy, though, this documentation details how to do it, including replacing the battery. For those who prefer following a video, there's also a video tutorial at the bottom of the page

I have a couple of aftermarket amplifiers in my car. I spend a lot of time in it, so felt it was worth the effort needed to improve the audio system.

Both amps have a dedicated lead running to the battery (each with an appropriately rated fuse just after the battery), though they share a ground point (to minimise the potential between them and avoid ground loop noises).

From that description, all should be good and safe right? Wrong. Luckily I caught it before it developed into anything more serious, but this post is to demonstrate why it's important not to let yourself get complacent. Check your wiring regularly.

The Volvo 440 dates back to an era where Car manufacturers were actually helpful (or at least some of them were), and as a result has a built in Diagnostic system. No going to the Garage to have fault codes read, so long as you know how to use the system.

This article tells you exactly how to do just that!

The Vauxhall/Opel Corsa D was designed and manufactured whilst GM was firmly in control of production. As a result, the simple task of replacing a headlight bulb has been made needlessly complicated (and frankly, shouldn't be legal).

If you're stuck on the side of the road reading this, then the bad news is this isn't something you're going to want to try.

In order to replace headlight bulbs (particularly the dipped beam) on a Vauxhall Corsa D it's necessary to remove the front bumper. It is, at least, relatively straightforward to do, just a little involved.

This documentation details the procedure to follow.

Also known as "My Vauxhall Corsa D is leaking oil from top left hand side of the engine", the Vauxhall (or in some markets, Opel) Corsa D has a known issue with it's Oil Pressure Switch failing.

After some use, they eventually fail and start to leak oil inside your engine compartment - worse, some of this oil can get pushed back into the wiring, and then drawn up into the loom via capillary action - left long enough, a failure of this switch will be followed by failed lambda sensors, airflow sensors and then ultimately, the ECU.

The part is cheap and simple to replace, it really is 10 minutes work.

Make sure you give your car time to cool down first though, you're going to be working in close proximity to the manifold - when that's at temperature it'll happily sear the flesh off your hands.

For those who prefer it, there's a video version at the bottom of the page.

Having resolved the issue, it's a fairly garden variety fault, but I thought I'd document it in that the symptoms are almost exactly the opposite of what we expect to see when there's a fault with the charging system.

Essentially, as the engine speed rises, the voltage (measured across the battery, or from anywhere else in the car) drops - and not just a little.